If you think the Balkans are bad for bloody border warfare, just try to find a space in the maze of parking lots behind the busy storefronts of downtown St. Matthews. Warring posters warn of dire consequences if pilgrims bound for Mellow Mushroom, for example, or Plehn’s bakery, dare to park in the Feed Bag’s parking lot. Or vice versa.
I thought I was facing a “Papers, please!” moment on the way in the other day, when a friendly but stern uniformed Metro cop moonlighting in a private car hailed me and demanded to know where I was going. “M- M- Meridian Café,” I mumbled, which got a smile and a thumbs-up of approval. Apparently my destination made his good-guys list.
It’s a good thing, too, as Meridian Café has long been a favorite of mine (after overcoming a rocky start years ago). It is one of the most popular St. Matthews-area lunch spots on the sound basis of quality, reasonable prices and an appealing old-house setting. What’s more, Chef Mike Ross does a great job of keeping the old menu favorites around while mixing in enough new dishes to keep things interesting.
They rolled out a half-dozen new dishes last month, along with a strengthened commitment to have all meats locally farmed and, to boot, all “trans” fats out of the menu, so it seemed like a good time to check in.
The bones of the menu are familiar, with a good mix of soups, sandwiches and lunch entrees with appetizing breakfast options served through the day. About 18 lunch choices, subdivided among grilled pita sandwiches, paninis, “heartier fare” and “house specialties,” are all under $10 and come with chips and a pickle; you can add a side dish for $1.50.
More than a dozen breakfast dishes hit the same affordable price range, plus a la carte breakfast items that allow you to assemble your own morning repast featuring an egg cooked to order ($1.95), Garey Farm bacon ($3.25), toast ($1.50) and just about any other breakfast item your hungry heart desires. If you’re in a hurry, grab the “breakfast express menu” with a half-dozen choices — granola, cheese biscuits and sausage gravy, smoked salmon pita and more, all $4.99.
We started with Pop’s Grilled Pita Quesadilla ($5.99), a warm and filling wheat-flour tortilla folded over cheese and fired on the panini grill until it was toasty and molten, then plated with spicy fresh-tomato salsa and mixed lettuces.
We went to the new menu items for our main dishes, choosing a breakfast option, Blanca’s Breakfast Tacos ($8.25), a pair of fresh soft corn tortillas overloaded with light, fluffy scrambled eggs, tender black beans, mixed cheddar and provolone and spicy salsa; and a lunch dish, Richard’s Corned Beef, a layer of made-in-house beef — more like pulled brisket than traditional corned beef — layered with swiss cheese, hot mustard, pickle and tomato on thick-sliced rye.
A cup of thin, steaming roasted tomato soup and a side of tangy roasted tomatoes in a Dijon sauce rounded out a lunch too full to leave room for otherwise tempting desserts.
Other new menu items include fluffy Hall and Oats Cakes made with creamy steel-cut oats topped with seasonal fruit; The James, slow-roasted Garey Farm pork loin on toasted potato roll; the East Coast, Garey Farm pastured turkey with cranberry spread, cheddar and apples; and a collection of smoothies.
Our filling lunch for two came to $28.03, plus a $6 tip. I saw no reason to tip the parking-lot cop.
Meridian Café
112 Meridian Ave. • 897-9703
themeridiancafe.com
Rating: 86
Nibbles
Owners and friends renovating Ichiban Samurai
The equivalent of an old-fashioned barn raising seems to be going on at Ichiban Samurai Restaurant in Plainview (1510 Lake Shore Court, 412-3339), where owner Sang Lee and his Korean-American family, a bunch of the restaurant’s friends and supporters, and contractors are all working together on a major renovation of the sprawling facility, which long housed Louisville’s branch of the international Benihana of Tokyo chain.
(I discovered to my amusement during a visit to Tokyo years ago that the Benihana there is known as Benihana of New York, but that’s another story.)
Family friend Lisa Davis wanted us to know that the Ichiban community has been working together for the past month to do a complete remodel and makeover. They’ve demolished a deck to make way for a new garden out front; pulled up the carpet to make way for a new textured floor; built several new private rooms; and painted chairs, walls and ceilings.
Renovations happen Monday through Thursday; the restaurant is currently open for lunch and dinner Friday through Sunday.
