Every now and then I’ll see an email or
social-media ad that inspires immediate
action. The new iPhone is available! Two-for-one sale on Häagen-Dazs! And, just the other
day, “Tomato season has returned, and so has
the beloved Haymarket BLT!”
I had been meaning to get to Haymarket
for a while. This fancy newish farm-to-table
market and eatery, open since June 2023, is by
Ashbourne Farms of Oldham County, a multi-generational operation founded by bourbon
industry patriarch W. L. Lyons Brown Sr. and
his wife Sally in the 1930s.
Haymarket stems from Ashbourne’s vision
to open a small farm store in La Grange, which
turned into a larger plan to bring their farm
and its ethos of connection to what we eat to the greater Louisville community.
“We are beyond proud to bring farm-fresh
foods, convenience, and warm hospitality
together under one roof,” the operators said
in a June 14, 2023 Facebook post announcing Haymarket’s opening.
Haymarket is named after the old Louisville Haymarket, an open-air marketplace in the
downtown block surrounded by Jefferson,
Liberty, Brook and Floyd streets where
regional farmers brought fresh produce for
sale in a very early version of the farmers’
market. The old Haymarket opened in the
1880s and ran until urban renewal displaced
it in the 1960s.
Like the old Haymarket but with more
intentionality, Ashbourne’s Haymarket, according to its social media, reflects the
seasons and the bounty from its local farming
partners: “Our culinary program is defined by
embracing the finest ingredients nature has to
offer, creating an experience that celebrates
the richness and vibrancy of each season.”
Located at the corner of River Road and
Mockingbird Valley Road, Haymarket’s large
building incorporates a farm-to-table grocery
and specialty store and high-tech casual
eatery that reminds me of the offspring of
a union between an upscale Paul’s Fruit
Market on steroids and a polished Logan
Street Market.
The large, open, high-ceiling-ed building contains several stations including all
manner of packaged and prepared food,
many of them behind glass doors in lighted
refrigerated shelves; a bakery section offer-
ing breads in bins and tempting pastries and
cookies; and stands filled with ceramics for
sale.
Outside, along with rows of tables under
shady umbrellas lined up on well-manicured
lawns, you’ll find plants for sale and shelves
of flower pots and other garden accessories,
all surrounded by native and prairie plants.
Before you dive into the food side, it might
be a good idea to take a breath, look around,
and maybe prep with a visit to Haymarket’s
website before you go. There are several
ways to get fed: You can place your order in
advance or walk up, motor through a drive-through window; go inside and select your pick of ready-to-eat items and drinks; or, as
we did, go inside and enjoy a high-tech order-
ing experience by checking the menu on a
large screen, then turning to a terminal to
select your order by clicking the dishes you
prefer and flashing your card or device … no
cash, please!
Of course, we got the BLT ($15), and it was
very much as advertised, served wrapped in
deli paper with a couple of chef-style touches
that departed from tradition but added a
flavor boost. It was built on slices of tangy
house-made sourdough bread, grilled to a
light crunch and generously filled with a half-
dozen large slices of locally raised bacon just
cooked through; thin-sliced, bright red and
juicy tomato slices; fresh leaf lettuce, and the
surprise ingredient, what appeared to be a thin
spread of basil pesto.
Tomato made another appearance in
tomato bisque ($8), an elegant dark-red puree,
warm, thick and rich with a hint of cream. It was lightly sprinkled with chopped parsley or
basil and bore just a hint of piquant spice.
Polenta fritters ($14) made a hearty plant-
based entree. Several large, thin rounds of
polenta fried crunchy dark brown formed
the base for a bowl full of tender steamed
seasonal veggies cut in a large dice, drizzled
with bright tomato sauce and decorated with
edible flowers.
A side order or sesame tofu ($5) was simple
and tasty: A chunk of soft, baked tofu had been
dusted with black and white sesame seeds
and cut into thick slices to make a fascinating
combination of subtle flavors and textures.
We waited to be called, and picked up our
lunch, neatly packed in biodegradable paper
bags and cardboard bowls and tubs. Knives,
forks and spoons and drinking cups, though
available on request, appeared to be non-recyclable plastic.)
Haymarket’s coffee shop looked tempting, but we were lured by the pricey appeal
of bottled house-made cold-pressed turmeric
ginger lemonade ($8) and a bright orange can of
De La Calle Tepache mango chili picante ($4).
The abundant weekend midday meal came
to $44.52, and the two fancy non-alcoholic
drinks, purchased at a separate station, totaled
$12.72. The digital ordering and point-of-sale
system didn’t seem to be set up for tipping.
Noise Level: Although the place was
crowded for lunch on a Saturday, the large
space seems to soak up noise. Decibel levels
hovered in the relatively quiet 60dB range,
and conversation was not a problem.
Accessibility: The entire facility appears to
be fully accessible to wheelchair users.
This article appears in Jul 17-30, 2024.
