When you think of fine dining, do you picture stiff waitstaff and hushed conversations… maybe an ice sculpture of a swan? Paseo, nestled in the Lower Highlands on Baxter Avenue, is here to challenge those stereotypes—one wood-fired carrot at a time. This metropolitan-style eatery manages to combine upscale culinary offerings with an atmosphere that feels warm and friendly.
If you have not noticed it before, it sits back from the street a bit behind a huge entrance that simply reads: Paseo. Walking through the painted brick edifice, like taking a wardrobe ride to Narnia, you discover the large, partially covered patio and heated pool from the Myriad Hotel and Swim Club with the entrance to the restaurant located in the back.
With many tables spread out under high ceilings, the open floor plan and high-end bar let you know that you are definitely not at the swim club concessions stand.
Live jazz plays on select evenings, serenading patrons as they sip half-priced bottles of wine (a Tuesday night’s special… put it on your calendar), or as Hope says, “I like a wine deal with a soundtrack.”
The Menu—a Feast for All (Even Vegetarians and Octopus Fans)
For main courses, everyone at our table found their jam. Rob went bold with the octopus, complete with fingerling potatoes and Spanish chorizo. My vegetarian heart led me to the risotto, decadent eating for a veggie—especially when topped with Frondosa Farms mushrooms that were offered for a slight upcharge. Those mushrooms alone were worth the price of admission. The ladies at the table (the word ‘Ladies” used loosely) opted for the salmon, which arrived adorned with pomegranate reduction, white balsamic, microgreens, and candied almonds. It looked so artful; I half expected Hope to frame it instead of eating it (she didn’t—she inhaled it).
Shareables Worth Sharing (or Not)
While the risotto was the headliner for the night for me, the shareable plates were an all-star opening act.
Starting with the hummus brûlée as an amuse-bouche of sorts (a smoky, creamy take on the Mediterranean classic complemented by harissa onion jam and flatbread – make it gluten-free by adding the crudité, a variety of crisp, pickled veggies), we had the sustenance to order more appetizers.
The plentiful order of wood-fired carrots drizzled in basil aioli and topped with pistachios exemplified simplicity done right, where you let the veggies themselves do the heavy lifting on the flavor profile. Same with the fingerling potatoes… perfectly cooked tubers with sherry vinegar, house-made berbere spice, and grana Padano. Though not veggie-compliant, the table also scarfed down the crispy Brussels sprouts with orange n’duja vinaigrette. We pretended to share, but there were some fork battles. No regrets, no apologies.
Service With a Smile (and Great Wine Pairing Skills)
What truly sets Paseo apart is its service. Our server flowed seamlessly between informative and entertaining, offering thoughtful wine pairings and dessert wine recommendations. While most of us enjoyed gelato, sweet treats and coffee to end the evening in style, the server suggested an after-dinner glass of wine to my wife, who was not partaking. Hope leaned over and said, “He really gets me.”
For travelers staying at the Myriad Hotel, dining at Paseo is a must. But even for us Lu-a-vill-yuns, it’s the perfect excuse to treat yourself and loved ones to a night out. Or make a whole day out of it with a day pass to the swim club.
