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LEO food critic Robin Garr loves to talk about Louisville restaurants, and he tried plenty of new ones (and some old favorites) this year. Check out the local eateries he visited (and loved, for the most part) with this throwback to his restaurant reviews of 2023.

For more of Robin’s writing, which includes thoughts on various aspects of restaurant criticism itself, throwbacks to since-closed restaurants in Louisville, and more, check out our Food & Drink archives.

Photos by Robin Garr
Tikka Tacos 3311 Preston Highway Review: Indian? Mexican? Treat Yourself To Both At Tikka Tacos Recommended: “The Bollywood taco ($9) places an Indian standard – spicy, minty, cumin-and-citrus-scented bits of tender chicken tikka and a scoop of rice – into a puffy, flaky Indian flatbread called paratha that fills in for the usual tortilla. But then it goes all south-of-the-border with toppings of sliced avocado, pico de gallo, red onions, and fresh lettuce.” Robin Garr
Twig And Leaf  2122 Bardstown Rd. Review: Twig And Leaf Goes Latin At Dinnertime Recommended: “Pupusas ($11.99) are Central America’s answer to Mexico’s tortillas and Colombia’s and Venezuela’s arepas, or, for that matter, the good old Anglo white-bread sandwich. Popular, with local variations, in Guatemala, El Salvador, and Honduras. they are thick, soft, cornmeal-based, skillet-cooked flatbreads that you can stuff or top with good things to eat. They remind me of fat cornmeal pancakes, but savory with that delicious Latin cornmeal scent. They came stuffed with a thin layer of soft black beans and were topped with a crisp-textured mix of sliced raw onions, cabbage, and carrots with a tangy citrus dressing, plus a bowl of tasty, not too fiery, salsa roja on the side.” Robin Garr
All Thai’d Up  4812 Brownsboro Center Review: Gasthaus Space Gives Way To Tasty All Thai’d Up Recommended: “A deep white bowl almost brim full of kha gai chicken soup ($9) was excellent, a highlight of the meal. The thin but flavorful broth was made with a mix of chicken broth and coconut milk. The soup was full of goodies, not least abundant slices of boneless white chicken meat plus tender, sweet slices of oyster mushroom, bits of white onion, sliced galangal (a citrusy Asian cousin of ginger), bias-cut lengths of lemongrass, and kaffir lime leaves, all topped with fresh cilantro. All these flavors fused into an unforgettably fragrant, complex broth.” Robin Garr
Osteria Italian Seafood 1211 Herr Ln. Review: From Napa To Osteria: Italian Seafood In Westport Village Recommended: “We finally got to the seafood department with a shallow white, gold-rimmed bowl of spaghetti con vongole ($20). A portion of fresh-made pasta was coated with thin garlic-lemon clam sauce that stuck to the spaghetti strands and pooled in the shells of nine small, open littleneck clams. The clam meat tasted fresh but chewy, and its flavor was somewhat overwhelmed by the spicy flavor of abundant chopped Portuguese chouriço sausage. Tiny green peas, thin-sliced garlic, and a decorative grilled half-lemon completed the presentation, along with a thin-sliced, good quality lenth of ciabatta loaf alongside.” Robin Garr
The House of Marigold 10310 Shelbyville Rd. Review: The Early Bird Gets The Table At House Of Marigold Recommended: “I was impressed with Marigold’s farmhouse beet salad ($13). Attractively plated, a treat for the eyes and the palate, it was a meal-size plate filled with separate mounds of diced, tender cooked purple and yellow beats flanked on one side by citrus ricotta drizzled with olive oil, on the other by rich beet sumac puree drizzled with champagne herb vinaigrette. This mountain of color and flavor was finished with garnishes of grilled lemon, microgreens, pea tendrils, and edible flowers.” Robin Garr
Harvey’s 2011 Frankfort Ave. Review: We Go For The Big Cheese, And Charcuterie Too, At Harvey’s Recommended: “Harvey’s classico toastie ($13) is a hefty creation that a plain grilled cheese only wishes it could be. It’s built on Wiltshire’s tender buttermilk white bread, which holds up well under a combination of aged Cheddar and smoked mozzarella and a generous layer of mild, vegetal arugula pesto, with bits of sun-dried tomato as flavor surprises. It’s toasted until the bread is crisp and light golden brown and the cheese is molten. It’s almost too heavy a load for the bread, but the Wiltshire product came through. It was a real treat; and a ration of gaufrette waffle chips kicked up with pepperberry made it even better.” Robin Garr
Shreeji Indian Vegetarian Street Food 1987 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy Review: We Chaat It Up At Shreeji Indian Vegetarian Street Food Recommended: “Dabeli chaat ($7.99) offered a characteristic mix of flavors and textures. Served in a shallow cardboard bowl, it starts with balls of dabeli — a sweet and spicy potato mix — combined with garlic and sweet chutneys and tangy-sweet tamarind to make a spicy, fruity, and filling potato snack. The top is garnished with peanuts, chopped cilantro, a few strips of beets, and crisp sev, tiny turmeric-laced dried noodles.” Robin Garr
Nami Modern Korean Steakhouse 835 E Main St., Ste. 106 Review: Nami Offers Korean-Style Fare With A Side Of Ed Lee Recommended: “Ga-ji ($27) treats slabs of Asian eggplant and oversize king oyster mushrooms to a Korean barbecue technique with a marinade of briny fermented soybean and garlic marinade, then sears them on the grill and dusts them with sesame seeds. The result looks like beef but tastes like spicy, umami-loaded veggies. It came with a couple of roasted asparagus spears and an onion slice, a mound of three-grain rice, apparently a mix of brown, white, and basmati, and a selection of housemade banchan, the varied plates of spicy and tangy condiments that accompany just about every Korean meal.” Robin Garr
Anoosh Bistro 4864 Brownsboro Rd. Review: Anoosh Bistro Delights As Always Recommended: “We started with grilled artichoke ($20): Three tender artichoke halves were split lengthwise, neatly prepared with long edible stems attached. They bore neat char marks from the grill and boasted a happy tang from roasted shallot vinaigrette and preserved lemon. Bits of fresh-pickled carrot added brightness to the plate.” Robin Garr
Bahn Thai & M 2226 Holiday Manor Center #8 Review: Bahn Thai & M Returns Thai Flavor To Holiday Manor Recommended: “Wide, flat rice noodles, tender but al dente, were coated with a thin, slightly sweet sauce with a few tiny yellow soybeans scattered through it. Thin squares of well-cooked beef and crisp-tender, bright green broccoli florets were arranged in a circle around the dish, with intensely flavored bits of fried garlic on top.” Robin Garr
Blue Dog Bakery 2868 Frankfort Ave. Review: Blue Dog Bakery Achieves Perfection, Or Comes Mighty Close Recommended: “Flatbreads look a lot like pizzas, which is fine with me; and that goes double for Blue Dog’s flatbread fitted out with Red Hog sausage and pepperoni ($16). A thick, puffy whitebread crust, tender and full of yeasty holes, had been hand-formed into a long oval. It was dressed with a thin coating of thick, slightly sweet tomato jam and a mix of mozzarella and provolone cheeses that blanketed chunks of cooked ground sausage and thin slices of excellent handmade pepperoni. Earthy black kalamata olives and fresh green arugula completed a delicious pizza-adjacent dish.” Robin Garr
Con Huevos 2125 Hurstbourne Parkway, 10639 Meeting St., 2339 Frankfort Ave., 4938 US Highway 42, 210 W. Liberty St. Review: Recommended: Con Huevos, A Louisville Favorite For Breakfast Or Lunch Recommended: “I often get huevos rancheros ($13.99) here, but for a change of pace decided to fill up on a hearty ration of chilaquiles ($13.99, or $4 for a small side dish). This classic Mexican dish, according to tradition, traces its roots to the Aztecs. It comes in many regional variations, but Con Huevos’ version is typical: Corn tortillas are cut into quarters and cooked in a bath of spicy salsa verde until they soften. Then, this comfortable bed becomes a home for two bright sunny-side-up eggs; grated queso fresco cheese; stripes of tangy crema; crisp, pink pickled onions; and snipped chives. It’s quite a hefty combination, and I have to stop and think about how best to eat it – usually a mix of fork, knife, and fingers – but all the disparate flavors come together in an appetizing mix.” Robin Garr
Craft House Pizza 4041 Preston Highway, 12607 Taylorsville Rd., 9601 Newbridge Rd., 2813 N. Hurstbourne Parkway Review: We Pick A Plate Of Pickle Pizza At Craft House Recommended: “Let’s talk about that pickle pie. They had me at Habagardil: I’ve been a fan of the local Pop’s Pepper Patch product for years, and the spicy level is just right for me. Not too mild, yet not fiery enough to hurt. An individual pizza ($7) with the traditional thick crust, not deep-dish thick but not foldably thin either, was crisp and crackery with good toasty flavor. It was spread with a dollop of creamy, tangy ranch dressing, topped with eight or ten spicy Habagardil slices, drizzled with fiery Buffalo sauce and sprinkled with hot red pepper flakes. Authentic Italian it’s certainly not, but I loved the flavor and texture combination. I would do it again, without shame.” Robin Garr
District 6 3930 Shelbyville Rd. Review: Tasty Vietnamese Fare And Cool Cocktails Elevate District 6 Recommended: “An order of pagoda noodles ($12.75) from the vegetarian menu was a close cousin to pad Thai. A generous portion of tender, flat rice noodles had been poured over plentiful crisp-tender cauliflower and carrots, a few cubes of fried tofu and green onions, with scrambled egg bits, chopped peanuts and cilantro on top.” Robin Garr
The Goose, Eatery & Hangout 812 Lyndon Ln., Unit 105 Review: The Goose Has Landed, And We’re Happy About That Recommended: “The cod was good quality, mild and flaky, and the crunchy breading adhered well to the fish. It came with a small tub of mayo-based tartar sauce and a large wedge of lemon that added a tasty citric snap to the fish.” Robin Garr
Gustavo’s Mexican Grill 401 S. Hurstbourne Parkway, 1226 Market St., 6402 Westwind Way, 10715 Meeting St., 6051 Timber Ridge Dr. Review: Gustavo’s Gives Good On Tacos Recommended: “Let’s get right to the tacos: Gustavo’s declares that its quesa birria tacos ($15.99) use a traditional family recipe. The Jalisco original usually uses goat or lamb meat, but here in El Norte beef is more popular. Gustavo’s uses Certified Angus Beef, roasted with mild guajillo chilies, herbs and spices, then hand-pulled into tender, toothsome chunks and shreds. Three large corn tortillas that had been dipped in rich birria broth and grilled were folded over a generous amount of meat shreds and chunks along with melted cheese, chopped onions and cilantro. A dish of excellent broth for dipping and a small bowl of savory charro beans came alongside. It was an excellent dish. Taco Week? Why wait?” Robin Garr
The Irish Rover 2319 Frankfort Ave. Review: Recommended: Every Day Is St. Patrick’s Day At The Irish Rover Recommended: “Bubble and Squeak ($4.95) is beloved throughout Ireland, Scotland, England, and Australia too. These crisp griddle fried potato and veggie cakes get their name, it is said, from the sound they make while frying. Two thick, flattened rounds of mashed potato studded with flecks of green pepper, carrot and green onion had been grilled until brown and crisp on both sides. They came with a little tub of hot mustard, and they went great with Guinness. Most things do.” Robin Garr
El Mariachi 9901 La Grange Rd., Suite A Review: El Mariachi, A Favorite, Moves and Grows Recommended: “A larger dish, chile relleno ($12.99), featured a large, dark green poblano chile pepper stuffed with queso fresco (ground beef is also an option), baked in a light batter, slathered with tomato sauce, topped with more grated cheese and a zigzag of crema. It comes with excellent Mexican-style rice and frijoles refritos. The pepper was mild but flavorful. The rice and beans were also exceptional. The rice grains were each separate and tinted orange by mild chiles and tomatoes. It was studded with veggies perhaps selected for their colors: Green peas; carrot, red and green bell pepper dice, yellow corn kernels, and white onion bits. The beans were noteworthy, too, a rich, creamy puree topped with grated Mexican cheese.” Robin Garr
MeeshMeesh Mediterranean 636 E Market St. Review: Nulu’s Meesh Meesh Is Good Good Recommended: “A side dish of bamiya ($9) – the Arabic word for okra – and a small plate of embered beets ($13) together made an ample main dish. The bamiya is a thick stew of organic okra and tomatoes from Barr Farm in Rhodelia, Ky., mixed with crackling crisp fried onions and topped with small plum tomatoes and a sprig of fresh dill. The roasted beets are garnished with dates and pine nuts and perch on a bed of mild, tangy goat cheese sprinkled with chopped mint.” Robin Garr
Naïve Kitchen + Bar 1001 E. Washington St. Review: Naïve Kitchen + Bar Scores High On Our Critic’s Criteria Recommended: “The beets in a roasted beet sandwich ($15) were sliced thinner than paper, interleaved with spicy kimchi, smothered in a blanket of melted mild white cheddar and dressed with aromatic garlic chive aioli on thick-sliced toast. It takes a bold spirit to assemble such a disparate cast of flavor characters and make it work.” Robin Garr
Paradise American-Indian Cuisine 2951 Shelbyville Rd. #110 Review: Is This Paradise? Indian Buffet Is Back Recommended: “Amritsari fish pakoras, an iconic street-food dish from Northern India’s Punjab, may have been the star of the show. Breaded and crisply fried, they looked a lot like chicken fingers, but were firm, mild white fish that had been marinated with ginger, garlic, red chiles, and other aromatics.” Note: this restaurant has since closed. Robin Garr
The Raven 3900 Shelbyville Rd. Review: Quoth The Raven, “Gimme More Fish!” Recommended: “You can get a fish-and-chips sandwich on a potato bun for $14, but four bucks more will get you even more fish. What’s more, our friendly server was happy to substitute onion rings for the standard “chips” (french fries). This platter brings two medium-size pieces of heavily crumb-breaded, crisply fried cod. The kitchen shows real skill at breading, coating, and frying; both the fish and the rings were perfectly done.” Robin Garr
The Smokery 2354 Frankfort Ave. Review: Recommended: Meat Or No Meat, The Smokery Has You Covered Recommended: “Caesar salad ($8) just might have been the best thing on the table. Fresh, green romaine was cold and crisp, neatly cut in squares with no sign of brown or limp edges. Paper-thin slices of Parmesan were scattered on top; croutons were fresh and browned, and a tart vinaigrette, though perhaps not traditionally Caesar-style, was refreshing.” Note: this restaurant has since closed. Robin Garr
Uptown Cafe 1624 Bardstown Rd. Review: New Uptown Cafe, A Lot Like The Old Uptown Cafe Recommended: “The Asian-style noodles made an exceptional dish, served in a large, shallow white bowl attractively decorated with curlicues of Sriracha sauce around the edge. Tender flat rice noodles in a hot but not fiery curry sauce were topped with an artful selection of tofu cubes, broccoli florets, snow peas, thin-sliced cabbage, carrot, and onion, and topped with a scoop of chopped peanuts and a few cilantro leaves. The vegetables were very well done, quickly blanched so their colors remained bright and they were still crisp-tender to the bite but no longer raw.” Robin Garr

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