Barn 8 Delivers Culinary Treats In A Delightful Farm Setting

Aug 17, 2022 at 1:26 pm
Barn 8 Restaurant really is in a barn, once a working horse barn on Hermitage Farm in Goshen. You can even reserve a table in a private stable if you like!
Barn 8 Restaurant really is in a barn, once a working horse barn on Hermitage Farm in Goshen. You can even reserve a table in a private stable if you like! Photo by Robin Garr

If you haven’t made your way out to Barn 8 Restaurant at Hermitage Farm in Goshen, take my advice: You ought to give it a try soon. You’ll be glad you did.

Walk in the front door of the black, red-trimmed former horse barn on U.S. 42, and one of the first things you see will be a small painting of local art enthusiast and 21c hotel founder Steve Wilson, showing a big smile and his trademark red glasses.

Yep, Barn 8 is related by family to Proof on Main, 21c’s much-lauded downtown eatery. I might not call Barn 8 “Proof East” or “Proof in the countryside,” but it’s fair to point out the similarities, and there are plenty of them.

Both restaurants give more than lip service to regional farm-to-table dining, particularly to respected local farms for meats and produce. Both restaurants also reach beyond the local area when it makes sense to seek out quality, such as Proof’s ?ra King salmon from New Zealand and Barn 8’s Riverence farmed trout from Idaho and Washington State.

You’ll find plenty of Steve Wilson’s beloved art pieces at Barn 8, too, although it’s not as much of an eatery-in-a-museum spectacle as is Proof. Barn 8’s revamped horse barn, with private rooms in former stable stalls and design by Bittner’s, is art enough in its own right.

It’s about a half-hour drive out to Goshen from Louisville, but it’s a pretty drive on a long summer evening, straight out US 42 through fancy suburbs, forests and rolling farm fields. When you pass Francis Parker School (the just-renamed St. Francis School), watch out for the Hermitage Farm - Barn 8 sign on the right. Turn in between two large, intentionally rusted Corten steel sculptures by French artist Jean Dupuy, one reading “Here” and the other “Where.”

We summoned a couple of refreshingly bitter, light Campari-and-sodas ($9 each) to begin a celebratory anniversary dinner, and enjoyed the scene while checking out the current summer menu.

The 13-item menu doesn’t distinguish among appetizers, small plates and main dishes, but it’s easy to make them out as sizes and prices increase as you go down the page. Seven starter-type choices range in price from $11 (for a local greens salad) to $17 (for a fancy cauliflower puree). Six main course-type choices are priced from $19 (for mushroom risotto) to $39 (for a pork chop from Groce Family Farm in English, Indiana.) The extensive bar menu includes nearly 100 bourbons, an interesting wine list and short selections of creative cocktails and craft bottled and canned beers.

We started with a shared heirloom tomato tartine appetizer ($14), a daily special too attractive to resist. This seasonal chef’s whim started with a thick slice of house-made sourdough drizzled with olive oil and painted with intensely garlicky Lebanese-style toum sauce, then loaded with perfectly ripe, dark reddish-purple tomato wedges garnished with tiny basil, mint and beet-leaf microgreens. It was just about perfect, and a shake of salt on the tomatoes added the final touch.

Photo by Robin Garr - Robin Garr
Robin Garr
Photo by Robin Garr

Mushroom risotto ($27) hit the spot, a rich, comforting and delicious Northern Italian-style rice dish. A generous portion of crisply sautéed wild mushrooms from Frondosa Farm in Simpsonville, made it a special treat, further elevated with thinly shaved Parmigiano slices and an anisescented gremolata of minced Mexican mint marigold, an herb akin to tarragon.

I’m generally wary of farmed salmon and trout. But Riverence trout, from a sustainable, organic trout farm on Idaho’s Snake River, has won a “Best Choice” rating from the Monterey Bay Seafood Watch and other gurus of sustainability.

A good-size, skin-on fillet Riverence steelhead trout ($31) was a salmon-colored trout, seared until the silvery skin was crisp and crunchy. It broke easily with a fork. It was fresh, firm and easily flaked; its flavor was distinctly stronger than the mild taste that some associate with trout.

Photo by Robin Garr - Robin Garr
Robin Garr
Photo by Robin Garr

It was garnished with fresh-pickled pink onions and sat atop a small ration of butterbeans and a salty sauce described as salsa verde. The six or eight beans were tasty but variably cooked, ranging from soft to almost underdone-crisp.

We didn’t order dessert, but our skillful server, Lynsey, presented an anniversary gift: A small but delicious portion of salty caramel crème brûlee garnished with spicy popcorn. It was a real treat.

A splendid dinner for two came to $95.40, plus a $22.50 tip. •

BARN 8 Farm Restaurant

10500 W. U.S. Highway 42 Goshen, Kentucky 502-398-9289

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