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A lot of people call Vietnamese or Nigerian eateries ethnic, but they look at you funny if you use the same word to describe a pizzeria or a fancy French dining room. Whats up with that?
Immigrants identities are deeply tied to the foods we bring with us, Washington Post features writer Lavanya Ramanathan wrote in a 2015 story that explained it well.
Krishnendu Ray, a New York University professor of food studies, added: We use the descriptor ethnic for a category of things we dont know much about, dont understand much about and yet find it valid to express opinions about.
Thats enough for me. When people tell me how theyd like me to talk about them, Ill listen. So lets call them world restaurants in this weeks excursion into good things to eat, a round-the-world trip without leaving Louisville.
Heres a random list of favorites among the citys immigrant-owned dining rooms that I most enjoy.
Africa: West African
Funmis Cafe I love Louisvilles only Nigerian restaurant for its friendly, welcoming service and its delicious introduction to Nigerian cuisine, with a few leaps into other African regions and beyond. (Funmis Cafe, 3028 Bardstown Road, 454-5009)
Africa: Ethiopian
Queen of Sheba With the exception of pandemic regulations, Ethiopian food is served in the traditional style: Spread out on a large, communal plate lined with thin, spongy injera bread. Tear off bits of the injera to pick up bites of delicious, spicy East African dishes. Yes, theyll offer you knives and forks,, but give the traditional method a try. (Queen of Sheba, 2804 Taylorsville Road, 459-6301)
China
These two favorite Chinese places make my list for offering an authentic Chinese menu (in English) as well as traditional Chinese-American cuisine.Jasmine Asian Bistro Jasmine Asian Bistro in Holiday Manor is my go-to for a serious Chinese meal. Its extensive menu includes about 220 Chinese dishes, almost half of them in the Chinese authentic section; its tilted toward the spicy fare of Chinas Sichuan region but adds other regional favorites. (Jasmine Asian Bistro, 2420 Lime Kiln Lane, 618-3000)
Peking City Express Not just another fortune-cookie-cutter fast-food Chinese joint, this little shop does a lot of takeout and delivery, but its worth sitting down for its authentic Chinese menu, elevated by the hand of an exceptional Chinese chef. (Peking City Express Chinese Cuisine, 4000 Dutchmans Lane, 891-0388)
India
Louisville has at least 15 Indian restaurants, and I love them all. Here are two favorites because I cant pick just one.Dakshin Dakshins menu is said to include at least one dish from every Indian state, from Tamil Nadu and the Malabar Coast to Kashmir and the Himalayas. This makes for a massive bill of fare with more than 200 items, virtually all at remarkably affordable prices. (Dakshin Indian Restaurant, 4742 Bardstown Road, 491-7412)
Bombay Grill Bombay Grills 150 dishes are helpfully categorized by type of dish or primary ingredient. The lengthy menu features the cuisines of Andhra, Chettinad, Chennai, Mysore, even the restaurants namesake Bombay, now known as Mumbai. (Bombay Grill, 216 N. Hurstbourne Parkway, 425-8892)
The Mediterranean
Aladdins Cafe Its hard to top Aladdins in New Albany for excellent Mediterranean fare. It turns out appetizing, thoughtfully-prepared dishes that reveal a serious chef in the kitchen. Dishes are prepared to order, and adhere to a high standard of quality and freshness. (Aladdins Cafe, 37 Bank St., New Albany, Indiana, 489-7969)Mexico: Dining
El Mundo El Mundo has been a Frankfort Avenue landmark for more than 25 years, and Ive loved it since the very first. Its fare is authentically Mexican, and its distinctly chef-driven, with creative touches in flavor and presentation. Its funky two-story interior, attractive backyard patio, and serious bar program are all happy plusses. (El Mundo, 2345 Frankfort Ave., 899-9930; a second shop opened last year at 1767 Bardstown Road, 384-5633)
Mexico: Taquerias
El Mariachi Im a fan of dozens of local taquerias, but Im always happy to return to El Mariachi. Located in a short Mexican shopping strip with its roots in Mexicos Guanajuato region, El Mariachi boasts exceptional taqueria fare made from fresh, natural ingredients largely obtained from local farms. (El Mariachi Restaurante Mexicano, 9901 Lagrange Road, 413-5770)Mexico: Brunch
Con Huevos Fierce attention to consistency, detail, artful presentation and commitment to high-quality Mexican cuisine with a focus on brunch and lunch elevate Con Huevos. Pastured eggs from local farmers, torta breads from a local panaderia, and locally-sourced meats and produce and high quality work in the kitchen make Con Huevos a keeper. (Con Huevos, 2339 Frankfort Ave., 384-3027, and 4938 U.S. 42, 384-3744)Southeast Asia
Eatz Vietnamese Its easy to stereotype Louisville Vietnamese dining as a drive out to the Southeast Asian communities in the South End. But youll find good Vietnamese eats all over town, and tiny Eatz Vietnamese is one of my favorites. Its pho is spectacular, and the rest of the menu is right up there with it. (Eatz Vietnamese, 974 Barret Ave., 785-4450)
Simply Thai This St. Matthews-area favorite has been a beacon for excellent Thai fare for 15 years. Its extensive menu covers the Thai basics and more with high quality Thai fare; and on the side, a selection of sushi. (Simply Thai, 323 Wallace Ave., 899-9670, and 12003 Shelbyville Road, 690-8344)