I like Subway as much as the next guy — it’s an easy lunch staple, even if it’s a chain, and one reason I eat there occasionally is that after having a Subway sandwich I don’t feel like I’ve ingested a bowl of grease. (See also, fast food burgers and tacos.)

But my pal Fred recently turned me onto Which Wich, located at 9850 Von Allmen Court Suite 103 off Brownsboro Road (near Cabela’s). It’s a franchise — the chain originated in Dallas — but it’s a fun experience right from the start. It goes like this:

You enter, choose what type of sandwich you want, and then choose a corresponding brown bag, which are displayed under an order board just inside the store. You then grab a red Sharpie from the many buckets filled with them, write your name on the bag and mark all the specifics, from type of bread to toasted/not toasted to the type of veggies you want. Yellow mustard or spicy mayo? Cheddar cheese or Swiss? Seven-inch, 10.5-inch or 14-inch?

I was feeling it on my first visit, so I went for the signature sandwich called The Wicked, albeit the smallest size. Still, this beast looked like a true mouthful, with five different types of meat and three cheeses of your choice. So, it goes like this: turkey, ham, roast beef, pepperoni and bacon on one sandwich, and I topped it with cheddar, pepper jack and Swiss cheese.

To that, I added spinach, red onions, avocado and hot peppers, as well as deli mustard. The sandwich came back to me in the bag, which I’d handed to the cashier, just moments later. I opened it up, and looked at it, and the first thing I thought was that it looked like someone’s lunch had exploded. But in a good way.

The meat was shaved and plentiful, and the cheese was clearly freshly cut (I noted rough edges, so it wasn’t pre-sliced before packaging). The avocado was guacamole style and delicious, with big chunks of avocado in with the creamy, bright green spread. The bacon was crispy and not microwaved, and the spinach was fresh and plentiful.

Of course, as you would absolutely imagine, it was a real pain in the butt to eat. I don’t necessarily mind getting my hands messy, but when the contents of the sandwich start falling out of the bread left and right, well, I for some reason get the urge to yell “man overboard!”

Also, much like with Subway sandwiches, you get an imbalance of ingredients thanks to the order in which they are added to the sandwich. Therefore, I found myself taking meat-heavy bites on the left, near the seam of the bread, and bites of mostly cheese and avocado on the right. From there, it was a struggle to try to find the full balance somewhere in the middle.

I’m not complaining, though. I enjoyed every bite. For his part, Fred simulated a Reuben sandwich, upon which he regretted adding banana peppers. Sandwiches at Which Wich come cut in half, so for his second half, he removed the banana peppers.

“I love banana peppers,” he said, “but apparently they don’t work on a Reuben.”

Now we know.

Anyway, the house chips are worth trying (they come in a small, brown paper bag, then double wrapped in a plastic bag, so it’s like taking your lunch when you’re a kid), and there are plenty of vegan options. If you play your cards right, you can get a big meal with sandwich, chips and a drink for under 10 bucks. And if you’re counting calories you ask them to “skinny your wich,” and they’ll scoop out the middle of your bread, which apparently saves about 90 calories on a small sandwich.

There are also breakfast sandwiches and a kids menu. If you don’t work or live out that way, it might be a hike, but if you’re going to Cabela’s or Costco anyway, Which Wich is a place to consider for lunch. And there’s a Beef Jerky Outlet next door where you can get a spicy snack to take home.