You don’t have to remind me of what I already know: That I’m obsessed with tacos. Hey, part of breaking an addiction is recognizing it as such in the first place, right?
The problem is that I recently tried the tacos at Con Huevos, located at 2339 Frankfort Ave. (the former home of Sari Sari), and I fear this has only fueled my love for the little traditional Mexican sandwiches. In fact, they may have sent me careening into the depths of an addiction for which there is no cure.
I met owners Jesus and Ismene Martinez not long before they opened the small restaurant, which is primarily breakfast focused, and they told me at the time they planned to have a lunch menu with tacos. They told me the style of tacos they had planned would be a bit different in that the meat ingredients would be sort of a stew that then goes into the shells, followed by toppings.
That, of course, explains the amazing tenderness and flavors of the meats in Con Huevos tacos. It’s almost not even fair.
For $10.99, you get three tacos from a choice of four different styles: carne asada, “chori-queso,” carnitas, tinga de pollo; or, for $7.99, you can go with three quesadilla veggie tacos, which are flour tortillas filled with refried black beans, veggies of the day, Oaxaca cheese, crema and pico de gallo.
Obviously, I wanted meat tacos for my first run, so I ordered one each of chori-queso, carnitas and tinga de pollo.
The tacos came out steaming hot with lime wedges, the juices so plentiful they were running all over the plate, which probably explains the multi-stacked corn tortilla shells. One tortilla would stand no chance against the juiciness of these meats.
I started with the carnitas taco, which is simple enough: slow-roasted pork topped with cilantro and a few pickled onions. But those extra two ingredients were mere afterthoughts to the delicious pork. If you’ve ever had a really good pork roast, imagine a very well-seasoned version of that, but in taco form. I was nearly speechless.
I moved on to the pollo, which is slow roasted with tomato and chipotle sauce and then topped with a generous heap of fresh guacamole. Holy cow. It’s as good as it sounds, and is sort of making my mouth water just from writing about it after the fact. The flavors are really amazing, and it was a taco that would be just fine even without the guac. But with? Yeah, I’ll be hard pressed to not get three next time.
I saved the chori-queso taco for last, because I love chorizo and I love cheese; this guy was stuffed with chorizo that had chunks of Oaxaca cheese in it, and topped with pico de gallo. Unlike most chorizo, which is usually finely ground into small chunks, this chorizo was in bigger clumps, like hamburger in homemade chili. Like with any chorizo, the flowing juices (read: grease) turned my fingers orange. And it was tasty, although not as flavorful as I had expected based on the other two tacos.
Hey, I’m not complaining, per se — I just wish I’d eaten that one first so that the bar wasn’t set so high. That, or I should have gotten a carne asada taco in its place (don’t think I didn’t consider it).
My friend Kirk had joined me for lunch that day, and his choice was a Torta Cubana, served with chilaquiles on the side. He raved about both the crispy tortillas and the sandwich, which was filled with pork and chorizo and topped with Arugula, tomatoes, avocado, jalapeño aioli and Oaxaca cheese.
I’ve had the breakfast at Con Huevos, and it’s amazing. The lunch isn’t far behind. Worth a trip, but bear in mind it’s a small place, so you might have to wait if you plan to dine in. Arrange-ahead carryout is available at conhuevos.com or by calling 384-3027.